Vanylven - a journey through time!

It takes a lot of labour to build a coastal battery, such as the one that the occupying powers built in Espeneset. They wanted to control shipping through the strategically important Åram strait. They obtained the workforce partly by using Polish and Russian prisoners of war who were consigned to forced labour. The prisoners were collected at a camp that was a little way inland from the sea. German soldiers and officers also lived in the camp, in addition houses and farms in the vicinity were also requisitioned by the occupying powers. Those who lived there, were forced to find themselves somewhere else to live. Walls from the many buildings and installations at the camp still stand as a silent witness to a time when the rule of law and democracy were extinct. Many school classes have taken an excursion to the camp at Åram to experience living first hand accounts from people who were children during the war, and still remember how things were at that time. There was also a camp a few kilometres further south in Kobbevika on Hakallestranda. Prisoners from there were also used in the construction of Åram. In the old school that was requisitioned by the occupiers, Åram historical society have preserved some of the objects from the camp. Two prisoners who died at the camp during their internment, are buried at Åram church.

In 1759 angry residents of Vanylven directly rebelled against the unpopular bailiff Ole Alsing at a court meeting at Indre Strand on Fiskå. Alsing got away, but four local men were given prison sentences after the dramatic event and many more were given fines. The reason for the uprising was partly connected to the mining operations on Fiskå. From 1757 Alsing was at the forefront of the extraction of iron ore here. The mine is still clearly visible and there is a portal at this cultural heritage site. The ore was transported to Romsdalen to be melted down into iron. But before long the locals grew discontented, due to amongst other things the lack of payment for the work they had performed. But the straw that broke the camel’s back was when Alsing prohibited the sale of timber in Romsdalen, which stopped people being able to get hold of the necessary materials they needed. He wanted all the timber resources for the energy demanding melting of the ore. Iron production was not a success. In retrospect, it is suggested that this could have been to do with the fact that the ore contained titanium, a substance that must be removed before the iron could be used. But at the time, they did not possess the knowledge or methodology to carry that out.

In many ways the story of P.M Røwde is a tale of the underdog. It was by no means given that the small boy born in 1876 to a young, unmarried mother would become one of Norway’s most rich and powerful industrial and business men. But that is what happened. The boy who was called Peter Martinus Bretanus, grew up in this village where his grandparents lived. It is therefore natural, that the bust created by the artist Kolbein Sørlie from Askrim which was unveiled in 1947 was placed here. It is no coincidence that the artist was from Askim. It was here that the founder P.M. Røwde established a viable business: Askim Rubber Factory. Rubber footwear was produced here and later car tyres also. The brand name Viking is still reknowned. At its height the company had up to 2,000 employees. Røwde died in 1955 and the rubber factory was closed down in 1991. And even though P.M. Røwde lived and worked for the main part in Austlandet, he never forgot where he came from. Amongst other things, after the war he sewed rubber wellies for school children in Rovdestranda, financed the church organ, raised funds for a public swimming bath and additionally gave generous gifts to help friends and family.

If you stand right in the middle of the village of Syvde and look up at the majestic Blåfelden. You should know that it is possible to run up there in 35 minutes and 48 seconds. This is the track record set by the runner Torbjørn Ludvigsen during the spectacular uphill race of 2018. It is unbelievable! The race first took place in 2009. A town day was to be set up and Syvde Sports Club wanted to have an outdoor event as a part of that. And so Blåfelden straight up was born. The first 700-800 metres are on a flat track, followed by 3.5kms up to Svartetau at 842 metres, before the path goes down again to 820 metres which is the top of Blåfelden. Not everyone can win first prize – but all will be rewarded with a fantastic view. Currently, the fastest women to have completed the race is Johanna Sundling with a time of 42 minutes 57 seconds. Many famous uphill runners have competed in the race through the years and this has contributed to the race having a high status amongst other races in the region . Of course you can take a walk up at any time at your own pace. Blåfelden is one of 112 well marked mountain walks in Vanylven which you can find on a hiking map. And to quote a sign on the way up to Blåfelden «Noone comes to the mountains on a flat road!».

«A national historical shipwreck» according to the author and local historian Jostein Krokvik when describing the drama that took place in Syvdefjorden outside of Sandnes one stormy day in 1555. And there is a good reason for this. The country’s richest and most powerful women, Mrs Inger of Austrått was together with her daughter and grand daughter on a ship that capsized. The powerful Mrs Inger was the widow of the great man Nils Henriksson and lived on the Austrått farm on Ørlandet. Both through her marriage with Nils and the marriages that her daughters entered into, she became a key player during the turbulent times when the reformation was sweeping across the country. The Archbishop of Nidaros and Mrs Inger were constantly at loggerheads with each other. Mrs Inger of Austrått is also known from Ibsen’s drama of the same name with Ingrid Vardund portraying the main role of Mrs Inger. At around 80 years old, the ageing Mrs Inger was travelling to Bergen to attend to business. The weather was bad, and the boat sailed into Syvdefjorden. They were probbly being transported from Eidså to Selje in order to avoid the dangerous stretch of sea at Stad. But the gusts of wind from Breiteigsfjella are no joke. All onboard drowned. The bodies of the women were recovered and laid to rest in consecrated land at their home in Trøndelag. Little is known of the rest of the crew. But the name of Likneset, on Sandnes (which can loosely be translated as Death Cape) speaks for itself.

The bonfire that burnt on Rovdeskjeret on the dark winter’s day just before Christmas 1679 or over the New Year, was as far removed as possible from the usual cozy atmosphere of a bonfire. Perhaps one could hear the piercing screams of a desperate women. And those who had gathered on the beach with a view of the skerry, had a macabre feeling in their bodies. This was serious. A women who had harmed many with her sorcery and black magic was to be burned. She had even been having a Christmas party with Satan himself on Dovrefjell as late as the Christmas weekend before. That poor women was Anne Mogensdatter Løset from Syvde, she confessed to everything, after probably suffering physical and mental torture. She was amongst the last five to be burnt at the stake for witchcraft in Norway. In this area, during that last period, there were many extra cases of sorcery brought. Those who gave testimonials gladly took others down with them. The vast majority of them were women. But there were also men who paid with their lives. The most famous of them was called Lefsebjørn or Lespebjørn - the latter now being deemed as the correct version. He also ended his days in flames at the execution place at Rovdeskjeret in 1680.

It is not entirely correct to call Hakallegarden a fairytale, because the story of this fantastic visitor farm is entirely true! Even if the start does sound like an adventure: One evening, an animal loving girl from Ulstein, with clear artistic talent, stole a dog leash from a farm. When she returned it the next day, she attached a note with thanks and a drawing. The bachelor who owned the farm read the note – and the rest is history! Together, they created Hakallegarden with animals, play areas, a cafe and also overnight accommodation. The colourful farm, in both literal and figurative terms -has become a driving force for tourism both in Vanylven and in South Sunmøre. The popular NRK series «Marit and the animals» which ran for several years, was filmed at Hakallegarden. Then as now, this is a place to love and a place to be loved in! The location of the farm is such that the view alone makes it worth a visit. And should the day be on the warm side, than just below the farm you can find Sandviksanden – a top-class swimming beach!

She had her own way of saying Slagnes, explains Klaus Hagerup when describing his Mother Inger. The well-known lyricist lived in many different places while growing up, but Slagnes was “the place in life that she liked to think that she had grown from”, wrote her son in his biography of his mother. Inger herself also told of her upbringing in the book “Det kom en pike gående” – ‘A girl came walking’. When Inger’s Mother became a widow she moved to Slagnes where her brother ran a shop. At that time Inger was 10 years old. Back then, Slagnes had a small centre with amongst other things; shops, a post office, bakery and church, it was strategically positioned at what was at that time the main road - the fjord. Today it is quiet between the white painted houses. But if you stand on the quay, and look down the small street – Fargarbakken – you can, with a little imagination, visulize the noise and activity that once took place here and that inspired one of Norway’s greatest poets. The house that Inger lived in during the years she spent in Slagnes is still standing and is now used as a holiday home. Locally it is known as the ‘first place’. The house is privately owned by descendents of Inger Hagerup’s Uncle and Aunt.

People have hiked from the villages in Nordfjord over the mountains to Åheim in Vanlyven for centuries. Around 900 years ago the Monk Jetmund came over the hill. He, as many others before him, was probaby mesmerised by the impressive landscape that opened up before him. The stone he rested on, can still be found at Jetmundleitet, not far away from the Kvilehytta cafe. Jetmund had come to build a church. But where should it be located? In the evening he fell to his knees and prayed for a sign from God. He laid himself down in the heather in the hope that sleep and dreams would open up channels to a higher power. In the morning he was sure. Down where the river and sea met was where the church should be built. It is told that Jetmund is the Norwegian variant of the English name Edmund, the name of a King in the east of England who died a martyr. Is there a connection here? We don’t know. But we do know that our church was built around 1150. For 700 years it was the parish church until it became too small. After a hard struggle the new church was built on Slagnes. Unfortunately, the old church was demolised. Only some of the walls remained. Restoration work started in the thirties and by 1957 the church was completed, with many of the old features in place. And on the 11th August of that year St. Jetmund church was once again consecrated by the Bishop of Bjørgvin.

Do the ancient Egyptian Queen Cleopatra and Norway’s modern day Queen Sonia have anything in common? Yes, we at least know that both of them wore jewellery made from the gemstone peridot. The Norwegian Olivin centre provided the quality stones for the jewellery given as an anonymous gift to the Norwegian Queen on the occasion of her 75th birthday. Peridot is pure, chrystallised Olivin formed in the earth’s interior in the distant past. We are in the middle of an exciting stone kingdom. Here you can find stones to bejewel yourself with, learn from, become fascinated with and to live off. The Norwegian Olivin centre tells this complex story. It is well known that there are large deposits of the mineral Olivin in the mountains here. For over 70 years Olivin has been extracted at Åheim. It is less well known that the area is geologically unique in other ways as well. At the Norwegian Olivin Centre you can find information about places that you can visit to see and experience more, for example the ‘Peridotplassen’ where everyone can freely search for gemstones. In the former school building where the Norwegian Olivin Centre is housed, you will find a jeweller with a great knowledge of the gemstones. There is also a village museam with interesting collections from the not too distant past.