Bronnoysund - Sandnessjoen

Out on the western horizon rises Torghatten, shaped like a giant hat carved by nature itself. A wide hole runs straight through the mountain. It looks almost like a portal into a fairytale, or an eye watching over the coast — like the Eye of Sauron in The Lord of the Rings. The mountain stands 258 meters tall, and the hole is over 160 meters long, 20 meters wide, and 35 meters high. You can clearly see it from the ship, and it has fascinated both visitors and scientists for generations. According to legend, the hole was formed when the mountain troll Hestmannen, in a fit of heartbroken rage, shot an arrow at the beautiful Lekamøya. The King of the Sømna Mountains saw what was about to happen and threw his massive hat between them to protect her. The arrow pierced the hat, creating the hole. At that exact moment, the sun rose, and as with all troll-magic, the hat turned to stone. Geologists offer a different story. They believe the hole was carved during the last Ice Age, when melting water and ice slowly eroded a weaker section of the mountain. Whichever version you prefer, Torghatten remains one of the most striking and recognizable landmarks along the entire Norwegian coast. A place where nature and myth meet.

We are now passing Torgar to the west, one of the oldest known power centers along the Helgeland coast. During the Viking Age, a large and influential farm stood here, likely ruled by a local chieftain who held authority over the surrounding settlements. Torgar is mentioned in the sagas as an important hub for trade, religion, and governance. Olav Haraldsson, later known as Saint Olav, came here in the year 1028 during his journey north after being forced from the throne. According to Snorre's royal sagas, he was met with hostility. In response, he is said to have burned the farm and punished those who had supported his enemies. Today, you’ll see an open landscape with traces of ancient settlement. The place may be quiet now, but the ground still holds the weight of history. It is said that the name Torgar gave rise to both the island Torget and the mountain Torghatten.

The Brønnøysund Bridge stretches elegantly across the strait ahead, linking the mainland with the islands west of the town. Spanning over 550 meters, it offers stunning views for both drivers and pedestrians. It’s not just a practical connection between Brønnøysund and the islands—it’s also a striking, lofty landmark with breathtaking scenery. Some say that on a clear day, you can see all the way to Rome. But when the wind howls and the rain lashes sideways, crossing the bridge can feel like a wild adventure. The experience is free, of course—but not recommended for those with a fear of heights. To the west lie islands like Hestøya, Klubbøya, and Torget, the latter known for the famous Torghatten mountain with its giant hole straight through. These islands are home to farms, small harbors, and popular hiking spots. Many are still inhabited, with people making a living from farming, fishing, and tourism. As we pass beneath the bridge, think of it not just as a feat of engineering, but as a vital lifeline that keeps island communities connected and thriving.

We're about to dock in Brønnøysund, a charming coastal town with a lively center just a short walk from the pier. Here you'll find shops, restaurants, cafés, accommodations, and a pleasant harbor area with views of the surrounding archipelago. Brønnøysund has grown through trade, shipping, and fishing, but today it's perhaps best known for hosting the Brønnøysund Register Centre – a national hub for digital public services. The town is small enough to feel intimate, yet big enough to offer everything a traveler might need – whether you're looking to shop local, enjoy fresh seafood, or stay the night in a hotel overlooking the sound. Brønnøysund also serves as a perfect starting point for excursions to Torghatten, Hildurs Herb Garden, or the Vega Islands. It truly is the gateway to the Helgeland coast – a town where the sea has always been the heartbeat of life.

As we pass the mainland, you can now see Mosfjell and Tilremshatten rising ahead. Nestled beneath these protective peaks lies one of the most charming stops along the Helgeland coast: Hildurs Urterarium. But this is no ordinary farm. For generations, the Toft family has created a green haven of scent, flavor, and cultural heritage. Today, it’s a living herb and sensory garden, complete with greenhouses, art galleries, a wine cellar, and a restaurant. More than 200 different herbs and ornamental plants grow here, cultivated with both passion and deep knowledge. Nearby, you’ll find two intriguing cultural relics: a large burial mound and a mysterious stone triangle precisely aligned with the cardinal directions. Archaeologists believe this may have been a pagan site for fertility rituals. You’ll also see the ruins of St. Knut’s Church from the Middle Ages—and believe it or not, services are still held there today. Even from the boat, you can imagine this place as a northern Garden of Eden, where people and plants have lived side by side for generations, in harmony with nature and tradition.

Here, between thousands of islands and the mainland, lies the kingdom of cod! In the cold, nutrient-rich waters along the Helgeland coast, cod has always been one of the most vital resources—for food, trade, and survival. Cod thrives in the fjords, straits, and deep channels along the continental shelf. It comes close to shore to feed, spawn, and grow. People have lived off these waters for thousands of years, and cod—especially dried cod—has been one of Norway’s most important exports since the Middle Ages. There are two main types: coastal cod, which stays close to shore, and skrei, a migratory cod that travels all the way from the Barents Sea to spawn here. An adult cod can grow over one meter long and weigh more than 20 kilos. Today, fishing is both a way of life and a major industry. Boats of all sizes set out from ports like Herøy, Dønna, Vega, and Sandnessjøen—some using handlines and longlines, others with nets and traps. Cod is prepared in many ways here: boiled, fried, dried, or even soaked in lye. Every part of the fish is used—roe, liver, head, even the eyes—and it’s often served with potatoes, flatbread, and butter. It’s a true taste of the coast—and the cod is likely swimming right beneath you right now.

Can you imagine waking up with the sound of waves beneath you and the midnight sun as your nightlight? Then the island of Ylvingen, which we are now passing, might just be the place for you. This long, narrow island is part of Vega municipality and has been inhabited for generations. It’s perhaps best known as the setting for the Norwegian TV series Himmelblå, but Ylvingen is much more than a television island. Around 30 residents live here, in harmony with the stunning coastal nature. At the center of the island lies Tyskerhåjen, a former coastal fort built by the occupying forces during World War II. Today, it’s a popular hiking destination with panoramic views and remnants of gun emplacements, trenches, and tunnels still visible. Down by the sea, you’ll find Himmelblå Brygge, home to a restaurant, marina, and overnight accommodations. For a truly unique stay, try Himmelhiet—an Arctic Dome perched on the rocks. Its transparent walls offer a front-row seat to the sea, letting you fall asleep to the sound of the waves and wake to a sun that never fully sets.

Rising from the ocean like a jewel, the island of Vega and its surrounding archipelago stretch out toward the vast Atlantic. At the center stands Gullsvågfjellet, a dramatic, alpine-like peak reaching 725 meters above sea level. Around it lie more than 6,500 islands, islets, and skerries, forming a landscape unlike any other. In 2004, this area was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The Vega Islands were recognized not only for their natural beauty, but for the unique relationship between people and birds. For centuries, women here have cared for the eider duck, building small shelters for them and collecting the precious down they leave behind. This sustainable tradition is unique in the world and speaks of a culture deeply rooted in harmony with nature. Vega is the largest of the islands and has been inhabited since the Stone Age. It is home to fishing villages, farmland, and tight-knit communities that still carry the spirit of coastal heritage and shared effort. Many choose to go ashore to visit the Vega World Heritage Centre at Gardsøya, or to learn more about the eider traditions at Nes. But even just passing through this seascape by boat offers a sense of something rare and real – a place where people have lived with nature, not against it, for generations.

Along the western side of Vega, in the open landscape near the Sundsvoll recreation area, the Vega Stairway rises up the mountainside toward what might just be the world’s most beautiful view. The 1,400 stairs lead to the top of Ravnfloget, 350 meters above sea level, where you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the calm archipelago, surrounding islands, and the vast ocean beyond. Prefer a more adventurous route? You can also climb your way up. An airy alternative to the stairway is the via ferrata—two thrilling climbing routes that are exposed and exciting, yet not overly physically demanding. The Vega Stairway has become a symbol of community spirit, volunteer work, and a shared desire to create something truly special—an unforgettable experience for anyone who makes the journey to the top.

We are now passing Hamnøya, the long, narrow island you see toward the mainland. Just behind it lie the villages of Vevelstad and Forvik. Vevelstad is one of Norway’s smallest municipalities, but the area is rich in history. Archaeological findings show that people lived along this fjord as far back as 10,000 years ago. Traces of hunting, fishing, and farming from the Stone Age are still visible, including ancient house sites and burial mounds scattered along the shoreline. Down by the sea, you’ll find the historic Forvik Trading Post—an authentic piece of coastal heritage. Trade has taken place here since the 1700s, and the place is still active today, offering both lodging and a café. Many visitors stop by to enjoy Forvik Coffee, roasted and brewed locally with great care. The fjord between Hamnøya and Vevelstad is narrow and beautiful, with lush grazing fields and steep, rocky mountains on both sides. And while Vevelstad may seem quiet today, the landscape still tells stories of life, travel, and trade across thousands of years.

We are now sailing through Tjøttfjorden, between the mainland and an island realm that opens westward toward the open sea. On the mainland side, you can see the lush island of Mindlandet, swaying gently like a green contrast to the towering peaks behind it. On the other side, facing the roaring ocean, lies a string of islands, skerries, and reefs that have provided food, shelter, and meaning to coastal people for generations. Names like Sandvær, Gulløyan, Skotvær, Lånan, Flovær, and Skjærvær drift along the coast like poetry. Some were once thriving fishing villages, others were used for collecting eider eggs and down — a tradition closely tied to the UNESCO heritage of the Vega Archipelago. Out here, the remnants of a coastal way of life still linger. Small boathouses, old landing sites, and weathered down shelters tell stories of labor and deep connection to the sea. Some are still used in the summer months, others stand abandoned, silent in wind and weather. This is the Helgeland coast at its most authentic — open, fragile, and undeniably beautiful.

We’re now passing through an area known for its high moose population—so much so that Offersøya, the island you see toward the mainland, is often nicknamed “Moose Island” by the locals. Imagine that—a coastal island famous for the king of the forest! This landscape offers perfect grazing for moose, with its mix of wetlands, groves, and open meadows. Moose thrive here and are excellent swimmers. In fact, a full-grown moose can easily swim several kilometers between islands without trouble. It’s not uncommon to spot a moose peacefully grazing along the shoreline or wading through shallow waters between skerries. Besides moose, the area is also home to roe deer, hares, and red foxes. Birdlife is rich too—you might catch a glimpse of white-tailed eagles, greylag geese, or eiders soaring above or resting along the coast. All hunting in Norway is strictly regulated, with autumn being the traditional season. Aspiring hunters must pass a certification course and receive a license specifying the number of animals they are permitted to hunt. And if you ever come face to face with a moose? Stay calm and don’t approach! Moose can become aggressive if they feel threatened, especially mothers with calves.

We’re now passing the mouth of the Vefsnfjord, which winds its way deep inland toward the town of Mosjøen. Looking toward the mainland, you can spot Rødøya to the north—home to a unique prehistoric site: the rock carvings at Valen, a remarkable trace of the past. This ancient artwork is especially famous for its depictions of humans in motion. One figure has even been interpreted as a skier and was used as inspiration for the pictogram at the Lillehammer Winter Olympics in 1994. The carvings were etched directly into the rock over 4,000 years ago, showing how people in the Stone Age lived in harmony with nature—hunting, moving, and interacting with animals and the landscape. These petroglyphs are part of a long tradition of rock art in Northern Norway, often found along the coast near key hunting areas. Today, the site at Rødøya is a cultural heritage monument of national importance. It offers not only a glimpse into prehistory but also a timeless connection to human movement, survival, and community.

To the south lies Tjøtta, a flat and fertile island with deep historical roots. People have lived here for thousands of years, and the island is mentioned in some of the earliest Norse sagas. It was the home of Hårek of Tjøtta, a powerful and controversial chieftain from Snorri’s royal sagas, known for his role in the conflicts between the king and the farmers. The rich soil here supported large farms as early as the Iron Age. Even today, ancient burial mounds and stone cairns dot the landscape, bearing witness to structured societies with strong beliefs and enduring traditions. But Tjøtta also carries more recent history. On the southern part of the island, you'll find two international war cemeteries established after World War II. Nearby, in what is considered Norway’s worst maritime disaster, over 2,500 Soviet prisoners of war and soldiers lost their lives in an Allied bombing in 1944. Today, the site serves as a quiet and solemn memorial to the brutal consequences of war.

Look to the west. There he is Dønnamannen, or the the Dønna Man, rising like a sleeping giant along the horizon. Can you see his profile? Nose, brow, chest, and chin, as if the mountain itself has lain down to rest beneath the open sky. This peak stands 858 meters above sea level and is one of the most distinctive landmarks along the Helgeland coast. On a clear day, it can be seen from miles away, and from the summit, you’re treated to a sweeping view of thousands of islands — stretching all the way to the open ocean in the west and the Seven Sisters mountains in the east. According to legend, the Dønna Man was one of the trolls turned to stone when the sun rose. Some say he fell in love with one of the Seven Sisters and lay down to wait for her — but he waited too long, and as the sun appeared, he turned to stone. Others believe he lies there to guard the island and the sea beyond. The peak is a popular hiking destination, with a route that winds through marsh, ridges, and boulder fields. But even from the sea, it’s easy to be captivated — not just by the shape, but by the stillness it radiates. The Dønna Man is more than a mountain. He’s a figure of legend, a guardian of the coast, and a magnet for the eye and the imagination.

On the Helgeland coast, the weather is always part of the story — especially out here, among open seas and scattered islands. The ocean sets the rhythm, and the weather can change in minutes: sunshine, rain, calm and storm, all in the same day. We’re now in Alstahaug Municipality, which has a typical coastal climate with cool summers, mild winters, and sudden shifts. The average annual temperature is around 6.2 degrees Celsius. The warmest day on record was an exceptional 33.1°C at Tjøtta in 2019. The coldest? Minus 21°C in Sandnessjøen back in 1966. Annual precipitation exceeds 1300 millimeters, most of it falling as heavy rain. When low-pressure systems roll in from the Atlantic, wind speeds can reach hurricane force. During a storm in 1971, gusts hit 40 meters per second — that’s around 140 km/h. Newspapers later reported boat sheds blown into the sea, boats tossed ashore, and flagpoles snapping like matchsticks. But between the storms, calm, radiant moments break through. The light shifts, the landscape breathes, and it becomes clear why people live here — and why so many return. On the Helgeland coast, the weather isn’t just something to endure. It’s something to experience.

Looking toward the mainland, you now see the bay where both Alstahaug Church and the Petter Dass Museum are located. This is where the poet, author, and priest Petter Dass lived and worked. He was born on the island of Herøy, just across the fjord, in 1647, with family roots tracing back to Scotland. He was laid to rest here at Alstahaug Church in 1707. The beautiful stone church dates back to the 12th century and was a major religious and cultural center in the region. In the 1600s, this is where Petter Dass preached the word of God — not only from the pulpit, but through his own hymns and writings. His poetry wove together faith, nature, and everyday life, offering comfort and identity to coastal communities facing the harsh northern elements. His most famous work is The Trumpet of Nordland, a lyrical tribute to the region and its people. Next to the church stands the Petter Dass Museum, designed by the renowned architectural firm Snøhetta and seamlessly integrated into the landscape. The museum is both a cultural venue and a place for reflection, with permanent and temporary exhibitions about poetry, faith, and the history of the coast. If you're curious to learn more, consider visiting the Petter Dass Days, usually held in June, where you can experience art, literature, and music in this scenic and meaningful setting.

We’re now passing the island of Herøy, a vast archipelago made up of thousands of islands. Here, you can fish, swim, enjoy local food, sunbathe on smooth coastal rocks, or paddle through the beautiful seascape. You’ll even find powder-white beaches that many only dream of — all with the Seven Sisters mountains watching from afar. On the main island stands Herøy Church, often called the “Herøy Cathedral,” a stone church from the 12th century that bears witness to the power and faith of earlier times. Nearby are remnants of a monastic settlement and old trading sites, signs that Herøy has long been a hub of both travel and spiritual life. This stunning island realm brings you close to the elements. The area boasts abundant wildlife and bird species, and the fishing here is excellent. Herøy is also a popular base for kayaking, cycling, and island hopping. More than eight bridges connect the islands, helping to keep the communities vibrant and alive. Each year, local events like theater revues and the Herøy Days festival draw both residents and visitors alike.

Have you heard of the Seven Sisters? If you look toward the mainland now, you can see all of them. Seven mountain peaks rise like a rippling spine above Sandnessjøen — powerful, elegant, and beautifully aligned. Stretching over 20 kilometers, each of the seven peaks stands more than 900 meters tall. They are an iconic landmark along the Helgeland coast, inspiring artists, hikers, and storytellers alike. Legend has it that the sisters were seven of eight daughters of the mighty mountain Suliskongen in the north. He was very strict, and one day, all eight daughters ran away southward. Soon, the mountain Hestmannen caught their scent and pursued them, hoping to capture one of the beautiful sisters. The girls ran as fast as they could, but eventually, seven of them grew so tired that they lay down here on the island of Alsten, fell asleep, and turned to stone. The last sister ran farther south and didn’t stop until she reached Torghatten near Brønnøysund — but that’s another story. These mountains are popular hiking destinations, and some adventurers aim to conquer all seven in a single day — a feat known as “Seven Sisters in one day.” But you don’t have to climb them to be impressed. Even from a distance, whether bathed in sunlight or veiled in mist, the peaks radiate something grand and mythical. And what would happen if they ever woke up? Who knows. What do you think?

We’ll soon be docking in Sandnessjøen, a compact and lively town where you can experience Viking history, street art, and sea views — all within walking distance from the harbor. Just behind the town center lies the historic chieftain’s seat at Sandnes, a site tied to the Viking Age and old Norse sagas. Here, you can learn about figures like Sigrid of Sandnes and Torolv Kveldulvson, names that echo through medieval Norwegian history. If you enjoy visual art, follow the harbor south. Along the way, you’ll spot vibrant street art painted by international artists on local buildings. Continue into the town center, and you’ll find bronze sculptures by Skule Waksvik in the park — immortalizing Petter Dass, Sigrid of Sandnes, and World War II hero Skule Storheill. At the heart of town is Kulturbadet, a modern cultural hub offering a swimming pool, library, cinema, gallery, and a local arts and culture school — a space for activity, reflection, and shared experiences. Sandnessjøen is easy to explore on foot. Here, the past meets the present, with art and history nestled between the mountains and the sea.

To the west, you can see the large and fertile island of Dønna, which has been inhabited since the Stone Age. At the heart of the island lies Dønnes Farm and Dønnes Church, a stone church from the 13th century. Beneath the church is an old burial chamber, the final resting place for noblemen and estate owners. The farm offers accommodation and local food, making it a popular destination for those seeking a blend of history and tranquility. Dønna is ideal for cycling, kayaking, coastal walks, and culinary experiences. You can bike through villages and farmland, or paddle through narrow straits and inlets with views of both mountains and the open sea. This is an island that invites you to be present — among people, stories, and nature, all living side by side. The island is connected by ferry from Bjørn to Sandnessjøen and Løkta, and by bridge to Herøy. It’s also home to the legendary Dønnamannen — but that’s another story. Stay tuned!

Looking east toward the mainland, you can now see the Helgeland Bridge stretching like an elegant sail across the strait. With its slender towers and sweeping cables, it’s more than just a road over the fjord — it’s a landmark where design and engineering meet, seamlessly blending concrete, steel, and the stunning coastal landscape. The bridge was opened in 1991 and connects the mainland to the island of Alsta and the town of Sandnessjøen. It is one of Norway’s longest cable-stayed bridges, with a main span of 425 meters and a total length of nearly one kilometer. For many, the Helgeland Bridge is more than a structure. It marks the gateway to the western coastal realm, opening up a world of mountains, islands, and adventures. And when you see it from the sea, it’s easy to understand why it’s often called “the Gateway to Helgeland” — a portal to both everyday life and unforgettable experiences.